Skin characteristics

Below, I have documented some research in to a breakdown of the different skin characteristics, including; pigmentation, ethnicity, skin types and under tones.

Pigmentation

All skin types have the same amount of melanocytes – pigment skin cells that are responsible for melanin production – that are responsible for giving the skin its color, and shielding the skin from harmful UV rays. The amount of melanin produced by these cells widely varies.

Fitzpatrick skin tone classification 

The Fitzpatrick skin tone classification is a scale that classifies skin (from I to VI), by measuring the amount of melanin production in the skin’s cells. This is determined by the color of the skin, and the effect of exposure to UV rays.

Type I – The skin always burns, never tans, and is extremely sensitive to UV exposure.

Type II – The skin burns easily, but does tan minimally.

Type III – The skin often burns moderately but gradually turns to a light brown.

Type IV – The skin burns minimally, and always tans to a moderate brown.

Type V – The skin rarely burns, and tans very easily to a darker brown.

Type VI – The skin never burns, tans extremely easily, and is of a deeply pigmented color. This type is the least sensitive to UV exposure.

Undertones

Everybody has an undertone in their skin. The undertone is the color underneath the surface of your skin that affects your overall appearance. There are three undertones, known as; Cool, warm and neutral.

Cool undertones are of a bluish color. Usually, those with cool undertones have a blue appearance to their veins, and have blue or gray eyes.

Warm undertones create a golden, peach color to the skin. Usually, those with warm undertones have a green appearance to their veins, and have darker eyes (brown or green).

Neutral undertones create an olive tint to the skin surface. Usually, indicated by a blueish green vein appearance.

You may be able to tell your undertone by the jewelry you wear. In most cases if you suit silver jewelry you have a cool undertone, if you suit gold you have a warm undertone, and if you are lucky enough to pull off both, you most likely have a neutral undertone.

Skin types

Normal – This term describes skin with fine texture, a smooth and supple appearance, with no visible pores, and a flexible surface.

Combination – Combination skin is a term used for skin that falls under two or more categories. Usually this term describes skin that consists of an oily t-zone and chin, but normal or dry cheeks.

Oily – Oily skin describes a shiny, thickened skin with sallow and coarse texture. Those with oily skin are likely to have more visibly enlarged pores.

Dry – The term dry skin simply describes skin that locks in moisture. As indicated by its name, those with dry skin will likely have dry, flaky, scaly or rough patches of skin. Those with dry skin will also likely have smaller pores, and are more prone to suffering with broken capillaries and premature aging.

Acne prone – This term describes skin that is prone to breakouts. Acne prone skin can be caused by dryness, or oiliness, and consists of pores that tend to clog easily, making the skin more susceptible to whiteheads, black heads and/or pustules.

Sensitive – Sensitive skin usually affects those with pale skin. Those with this skin type are prone to redness and irritation, as well as suffering with tightness. Products must be chosen carefully for those with sensitive skin, as they are likely to react to harsher, and heavier products.

Mature – Mature skin is used to describe skin that has gone through the body’s natural aging process. Aging leads to a loss of elasticity, causing loose muscle tone and wrinkles.

Dehydrated – Dehydrated skin describes that with normal sebaceous secretions, yet a flaky and tight appearance.

Hyper-pigmented – This term describes skin that consists of visibly lighter or darker patches of skin, due to over or under production of melanin.

Ethnicities

Asian

Asian skin tones are typically depicted as warm, yellow tones. However, making up around sixty percent of the world’s population, skin tones and types are hugely diverse. With tones ranging from fair to dark, and pink, blue or olive green undertones, this ethnicity is one of the most diverse.

Skin ages much slower in the Asian population, compared to the rest of the world, due to excessive amounts of collagen and elastin (keeping the skin smooth and wrinkle free). Asian skin has a thicker dermis – the inner layer of the skin – allowing a larger storage area for collagen and elastin, making it last longer.

Furthermore, a thin stratum – the outer layer of the skin – causes the skin to scar much easier. The stratum acts as a barrier, protecting the skin underneath, meaning a thinner stratum leaves the skin more vulnerable, making it harder to heal. This also makes the skin extra sensitive, making it extremely important to protect, and treat with extreme care.

Excess sebaceous glands – oil glands – cause excess oil on the skin’s surface, causing oily skin, enlarging pores and making it much easier for acne to develop. Acne must be treated with extreme care, due to the skin’s high sensitivity and irritation levels. Factors such as temperature and chemicals can cause extreme irritation to skin with a thin stratum so products must be chosen carefully.

Additionally, Asian skin is prone to losing excess moisture. Trans Epidermal Water Loss causes; dry, itchy, scaly, and cracked skin in affected areas, making it vital to keep the skin hydrated. Moisturizer is an essential step in Asian skin care, and water binding ingredients (such as hyaluronic acid ) should be sought after, in order to keep the skin well hydrated, preventing these reactions.

Asian skin is also known for containing high amounts of melanin, making it prone to pigmentary disorders such as; hyper pigmentation, melasma, age spots and freckles. Wearing SPF is a key factor in preventing these problems, and a strength no lower than factor 30 should be worn on a daily basis.

African American

African American skin varies in tones and shades, from caramel to deep ebony.

Similar to Asian skin, African American skin is also prone to having a thicker dermis, aiding in the prevention of visible aging. Having a thicker dermis allows for higher levels of collagen and elastin, helping prevent viable signs of aging such as; fine lines, age spots, laxity and sun damage.

Scarring occurs more frequently in African American skin types, especially thick, keloid scarring. This is due to larger, more numerous amounts of collagen producing cells – Fibroblasts.

High amounts of melanin in the skin have both positive and negative effects on the skin. On the bright side, those with high levels of melanin in their skin are far less likely to suffer sun damage. However, higher levels of melanin, creates extra sensitive melanocytes, causing the skin to be prone to problematic pigmentation issues and uneven skin tones. This can also make the skin more prone  to dark circles under the eyes, and non-cancerous skin growths on and around the face. Brightening products should be used to target these areas, helping to even the skin tone, and SPF should  always be worn. Even Though these may sound like drastically negative effects, one of the most dangerous cancers – melanoma – can be developed due to the high amounts of melanin in the skin, if not cared for properly. Therefore, SPF should be a key step in anyone’s skin care routine.

White 

White/light skinned people have a base level of melanin pigmentation in their skin that has adapted to environments with lower levels of UV radiation, meaning they possess fewer melanocytes. This allows for better UV absorption, creating higher amounts of vitamin D, having a positive role in aiding bodily processes like calcium development. Living in areas of higher UV exposure can cause a folate (B9 or B12) deficiency. This can cause higher risk of DNA damage, birth defects and cancers – especially skin cancers. Lighter skin is also at much higher risk of severe sun damage.

Indian

Indian skin tones typically range from golden yellow, to brown – known as wheat-ish. 

Much like the other darker skin tones previously mentioned, Indian skin is prone to having a thicker dermis, making the skin prone to tanning, and much less likely to suffer sun damage or burn.

Indian skin contains a high melanin content, due to high levels of UV exposure. To prevent pigmentation disorders, such as; periorbital melanosis – dark under eyes, or perennial melanosis – dark patches around the mouth, that are prone to occur with high melanin contents, SPF (no less than 30) must be worn at all times. Use of brightening products should be encouraged, to help even out the skin tone. Ingredients such as; vitamin C, Kakadu plum, and Curcumin from turmeric, are commonly used in Indian skin care routines, to brighten problem areas.

Oily, acne prone skin is also likely in Indian skin, due to enlarged pores. Vitamin rich, antioxidant products should be used to tackle problem areas.

Those from Southern India are generally darker than those from the North, as they are closer to the equator – meaning they have higher levels of UV exposure. In turn, this makes those from  Northern India much less likely to suffer from problematic pigmentation disorders, compared too those from the South.

Latino/Hispanic

Those of Latino/Hispanic ethnicities typically have a more olive toned skin.

A thinner dermis means that nasolabial folds (fine lines and wrinkles) are much less likely to occur, and from a much younger age than may be expected. To avoid these formations, repetitive and extreme facial expressions should be avoided. Expressions, such as squinting and frowning, cause contractions in the underlying facial muscles. When these movements happen frequently, they are more likely to cause permanent indentations and folds, causing signs of visible aging (wrinkles).

Vitamin and mineral rich products must be used to keep skin hydrated, and maintain a youthful look. A thinner epidermis makes the skin much more prone to dryness, making a healthy skin care routine extremely important. 

Latino or Hispanic skin has a typically tanned appearance. Higher levels of melanin occur in the skin due to high levels of UV exposure. SPF products should always be worn to prevent long term pigmentation damage.

European

Typically, those of European descent have much fairer, pale skin.

Lower levels of melanin in the skin, make it prone to more extreme, long term sun damage, and irritation. Paler skin commonly has increased sensitivity to products and temperature change, and is also at high chase of developing rosacea.

Additionally, European skin is also known for having much smaller pores, creating flawlessly smooth skin. This is a huge positive when applying makeup, as it creates an almost perfectly even complexion, allowing the makeup to sit extremely well, and creating a stronger longevity. 

However, European skin is infamously more prone to earlier signs of visible aging such as; fine lines, wrinkles and age spots. Therefore, anti-ageing products should be encouraged from a much younger age (late teens) and SPF should be worn at all times, leading to overall, healthier, more vibrant looking skin. It is advised to use makeup and skincare products with inbuilt SPF, for an extra layer of protection.